He was standing on this cover of the ship last summer, observing that Split disappears behind us. The captain, Marko, I think his name was, said what seemed like a small rock that stood out from water. “That’s it,” he said. “There are no people, without bars, nothing.” I thought I was joking. It turns out that it was not.
That trip changed how I think of the Croatian holidays. He had been in Dubrovnik twice, divided three times, but this was different. This was just … empty. In good sense.
Look, I understand. You are on vacation, you want restaurants and wifi and maybe a cocktail bar. But listen to me. Croatia receives around 15 million tourists every year. Most of them adhere to the same five places. Mathematics are simple: if you want to avoid crowds, go where the crowds are not going.
I have done the tourist. He walked the walls in Dubrovnik with another 500 people. He waited 20 minutes to get a photo in Plitvice. Okay, but it’s not … Pacific.
These little islands? Different history. Croatia has more than 1,200 islands. Only 67 have people who live in them. That leaves many empty rocks surrounded by clear water.
This is where I ruined the first time. He booked what I thought it was a “private” trip. The second time, I did my homework. Found Condor through the recommendation of a friend. Really private this time. Only me, my girlfriend and the captain. He made all the difference.
What happens with these boat operators is that they know things. What islands are really empty. Where the currents are safe. What time the wind is accelerated. Marko knew exactly where to take us, a place he had been using for 20 years that most tourists never see.
Get there
The boat ride has been from division for about an hour. Maybe more if you go somewhere really remote. I spent most of the trip asking us if we were lost. Only blue water everywhere, without earth in sight.
So suddenly there was. This piece of white rock leaves the sea. No beach, only rocks and crystalline water. Marko anchored about 50 meters and said “this is all.”
Swim and explore
The water around these islands is different. Clearer than anything I have seen before. You can see the background even in deep water. Fish swimming as if they were possessing the place. What I suppose they do.
I am not a great swimmer, learned when I was 30 years old, I am still sure of deep water, but I even felt safe here. Water is so clear that you can see exactly where you are going. Without surprises.
We found a small cave where you could swim. Nothing luxurious, just a gap in the rocks. But swimming through him felt how to discover something in secret. As if we were the first people to see it.
The silence
This sounds strange, but the best part was tranquility. Without engines, without music, without people who speak. Simply water licking the rocks and maybe a seagull somewhere.
I live in London. Quiet does not exist there. Even in the parks listening traffic. But on that island, for three hours, it was alone … nothing. My girlfriend fell asleep in the rocks. I sat there looking at the water.
Sunscreen A lot. I burned my shoulders on the first trip because I underestimated how strong the sun is when it reflects water and white rocks. It looked like a lobster for a week.
Water. More than you think you need. There is nothing out there. Without stores, without taps, nothing.
Do not bring too much food. Most boat operators provide lunch. And honestly, eating a sandwich while floating in the middle of the Adriatic is quite special.
Waterproof phone case if you want photos. Although honestly, half of the appeal is being disconnected for a few hours.
I will not lie: being on a small island in the middle of the sea can feel a bit exposed. The weather changes quickly around. What is calm in the morning can narrow in the afternoon.
Listen to your captain. They know these waters. If they say it’s time to leave, it’s time to leave. I learned this in the difficult way when they caught us in the wind on my second trip. Nothing dangerous, but it is definitely not comfortable.
Tell someone where you are going and when you will return. Basic things, but it is worth mentioning.
If you stay at Split for a few days, this works very well as a one -day trip. But you may want to see some of the largest islands too. Tour a Brac It offers you a good mixture: some empty islands, some with real cities and restaurants.
Brac is interesting because he has this famous beach for all photographs, but also quiet villages where you can lunch and walk. Good contrast to the complete isolation of the small islands.
I took 20 photos on my first trip on the desert island. I spent most of the time trying to get the perfect photo of water, rocks, view.
In the second trip, I barely touched my phone. I just sat there and looked at things. It sounds bored, but it wasn’t. Sometimes you need … Be somewhere without documenting it.
Although I got a good photo of my girlfriend jumping from the rocks. She will kill me if I don’t mention it.
Six months later, I still think about that day. Not because something dramatic happened, he did not. Without dolphins, without treasure, without moments that change their lives. Only a few hours in some rocks in the middle of the sea.
But that is exactly why it was good. No agenda, without schedule, without essential attractions. Simply floating in clear water and eating sandwiches.
Most vacations are about doing things. See things, take photos, collect experiences. It was not to do things. About sitting still for a few hours and remembering how it feels.
If you are the type of person who needs constant entertainment, this is probably not for you. But if you want to remember how tranquility feels, reserve a boat for nowhere. You will not regret it.
You just don’t forget sunscreen.
